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              雨楓軒原創文學網 - 純凈的綠色文學家園 !

              雨楓軒

              回不去的才叫故鄉

              時間:2019-08-27來源:網友提供 作者:陳曉卿 點擊:
              回不去的才叫故鄉

               
                故鄉是什么?
               
                字面上的故鄉是指自己的出生地。但事實上,每個人心里還裝著另外一個故鄉——那是自己非常依戀的地方;是自己可以看不慣,但絕不允許別人罵的地方;是無論自己開心還是沮喪,都可以寄托情感的地方。
               
                比起故鄉的樣貌,人們更容易記住的是故鄉的口味。從科學的層面上說,人的口味基本形成于童年時代,你童年時吃到什么,以后的口味就是什么。頑固的故鄉口味依賴,源自神秘的童年味覺編碼。
               
                故鄉的味道首先是地理意義上的,它標識著你的歸屬,每個人都站在自己建立的食物鄙視鏈的頂端。這種歸屬感牢不可破,尤其以有風味的經濟發達地區為代表。一名北京的兄弟總結他們家的婆媳關系,太太和老太太親如一家的和諧中,一直存在著餐桌上的口味博弈,因為他娶了一個上海美女。
               
                故鄉味道還證明著你口味的正宗。如果你對自己故鄉的食物有著清晰的記憶,那么在一個飯局上,尤其是和你的口味正好吻合的飯局上,你就有絕對的話語權。故鄉甚至關乎個人的尊嚴。在我看來,沒有哪個地方的食物更好吃,但是一個故鄉感非常強烈的人,他能把故鄉的“口味正確”上升到倍數的水準。比如,哪個地方的辣椒最辣,這絕不是史高維爾指數能夠標定的。羊肉更是這樣,甘肅、寧夏都聲稱自己擁有世界上最好的羊肉,新疆和內蒙古更具體到南疆還是北疆、呼倫貝爾還是錫林郭勒。一個海南人過來插話,加積鴨、文昌雞、和樂蟹、東山——羊字還沒說出來,所有北方的網友不約而同地敲黑板:注意,我們在討論羊肉的話題。
               
                所以在飯局上,我經常會小心詢問在座賓客的籍貫,稍一大意,就會對人際關系造成永久的傷害。因為中國太大,連湯圓、粽子、豆漿都存在甜黨和咸黨,鴻溝幾乎與信不信中醫、吃不吃轉基因食品一樣,一言不合,勢同水火。南京人請客吃燒賣,一個呼和浩特人充滿同情,什么,糯米餡兒的?江蘇現在經濟形勢不行啊,吃不起肉?旁邊一個廣東人打圓場,我們廣東更可憐啦,燒賣連面粉都用不起,用雞蛋搟皮兒,而且,只能當早點。
               
                事實上,故鄉的味道不僅僅是空間意義上的,也是時間意義上的,和你的記憶、你的成長有關。
               
                每個人都有兩個故鄉,一個是空間的故鄉,一個是時間的故鄉。對于一個成年人,假如他的生長地在另外一個地方,那個地方十幾年甚至幾十年前的樣子會永遠刻在他的腦海里,而且被賦予更多的情感色彩,同樣地也包括當年的味道。就像梁實秋的北京,郁達夫的杭州,張愛玲的上海,汪曾祺的高郵。與其說他們在懷念故鄉的食物,不如說他們在回憶自己的成長。
               
                所以有人說得好,回得去的叫家鄉,回不去的才叫故鄉。
               
                天涯咫尺,故鄉難尋。這幾年,我和同事只做了一件事情——用食物給大家描繪一個美味的故鄉。
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